Light fare that’s fully satisfying

I was both skeptical and starving when I arrived for lunch date at FOUR restaurant. Starving because I hadn’t eaten breakfast (which means I was a little, OK, a lot, cranky, too) and skeptical because I found it hard to believe a restaurant that only serves healthy dishes that ring in at less than 650 calories could be:

(1) filling

(2) tasty

(3) (and as a result) satisfying. 

Having never worked in the Bay St. downtown core (for which I am very thankful for — I hate the whole rat race feel of the ‘hood), I was unfamiliar with this restaurant, which is located below Far Niente. I expected the tiniest of portions — more like amuse bouches than proper entrées — and planned on having to eat a proper meal afterwards.

Was I ever wrong. I taste tested two appetizers — the crab & corn cakes and the calamari and both dishes rivalled many of the calorie-laden versions I’ve had elsewhere. In fact, the tender calamari, cooked in a black bean sauce, is perhaps one of the more inventive and flavourful ways I’ve ever had squid.

The dish that completely had me swooning, though, was the smoked sablefish. The crispy skin had an intense but luscious smokiness, and on the side was a delightful edamame and sweet corn succotash. Also drizzled on the plate was a passion fruit mustard glaze (I used it sparingly, dipping occasional forkfuls of sablefish into it when I wanted a little extra sweetness).

I learned from chef Matt Rosen that the restaurant isn’t even equipped with a deep fryer. Also, before any dish makes it onto the menu, a nutritionist analyzes the recipe not only with regards to calories but also to ensure the rest of the ingredients are appropriately portioned. After all, low in calories isn’t so healthy for you if saturated fats are sky high.

FOUR was jam packed when I was there — and since I was too busy taste testing dishes I didn’t get a chance to find out if people were there for the healthier-than-the-food-court fare or just for a darn tasty meal. Whatever their motive, it’s a win-win situation.

FOUR, 187 Bay St., Commerce Court South, concourse level

2 Comments February 18, 2010